Tuesday, March 29, 2011

A Walk Along The Cliff Walk

DID YOU KNOW that Newport's famous Cliff Walk is designated a National Recreational Trail as part of the National Park System for its natural beauty and exceptional historic character?

My walks along the Cliff Walk usually begin at Memorial Boulevard, at Narragansett Avenue, at the Breakers Mansion or at Marine Avenue. Each loop is about 2 miles, and the terrain varies. Anyone walking with me agrees to a waiver because the trail is posted “pass at your own risk.” No facilities of any kind are available on the trail itself.

The trail (three and one-half miles in its entirety) lies within the National Registered Historic Landmark Districts of Bellevue Avenue and Ochre Point. On one side of the path jagged cliffs make a sheer drop to swirling waves about 30 to 50 feet below. And immediately on the other side, like dream palaces from a fairy tale land, stands the finest collection of 20th century American resort architecture found anywhere in the world.

My comments focus on three distinct aspects of the Cliff Walk – houses, history and habitats. First, the mansions and Newport Society in the late 1900s and early 20th century; second, the history of the politics of the trail as a public right-of-way from colonial times to the present day; and third, the geology, flora and fauna of Narragansett Bay. The Cliff Walk is on the eastern or sunrise side of the island and is particularly pretty and cool on early mornings. The trail is open year-round from sunrise to sunset, but I only take groups out on the trail in Spring, Summer or Fall, weather permitting. I usually carry along an album of vintage post cards so that, step by step, we can compare, then and now.



HOUSES The "cottages" that are lined up one right after another along the Cliff Walk belonged to a few of the millionaire industrialists who made their fortunes in manufacturing, on Wall Street and in land development prior to 1900. Like a "Who's Who" of society's elite - Astor, Vanderbilt, Goelet, Lorillard, Belmont - by 1895, this was the neighborhood of America's pseudo-royalty. The phenomenon of building that occurred in Newport between about 1870 and 1915 and the lavish lifestyle that went along with it, is referred to as the"Gilded Age."


HISTORY Today, some of the mansions along the Cliff Walk are the classrooms, dormitories and offices of Salve Regina University. A few houses are open to the public for tours. The majority of the houses, after more than a century, remain splendidly exclusive and private. The tour commentary explains the legalities of the public's right of permanent access to the narrow footpath beginning with the founding of Rhode Island, and details several subsequent challenges over the centuries as various parties attempted to determine exactly who "owns" the historic Cliff Walk. Thanks to the efforts of RI Senator and Newport resident Claiborne Pell, the Cliff Walk received national recognition in 1987 as an official National Recreational Trail.


HABITATS The trail is just a short segment of Rhode Island's abundant and colorful seashore. Along the walk, the tour commentary highlights wildflowers, waterfowl and wildlife that are typical of the state's entire coastline. Off in every direction, towards the horizon, or straight down to the water's edge, the breathtaking views and vistas are made more dramatic by the height of the storm-ravaged cliffs and ledges and the continuous roar of the breaking waves below.