By Neala Schwartzberg OffBeat Travel
Justifiably famous for its charm and whispers of great wealth, for B&Bs ranging from sumptuous to cozy, protean Newport is a canvas upon which people can create their own ideal vacation. It has a rich colonial past, and a vibrant present. The biggest problem is figuring out how to fit everything into one weekend.
Day One: Explore Newport's Colonial Past
"This is living history," said Anita Rafael, of Newport On Foot TM Guided Tours, as she gestured to the colonial-era houses lining the street. "We live in these houses, attend the same churches, even take books out of the same library as people did almost 300 years ago." It's true. People can eat in the same tavern. There's even the same militia, Newport Artillery Company, established in 1741. Although Newport is famous for the mansions of the incredibly rich and powerful dating back to 1800s, its colonial past is alive and well, even though it dates back much further.
Houses of Worship
Some of the colonial era highlights are the houses of worship. The colony of Rhode Island was founded by Roger Williams based on true religious freedom for everyone. The concept was unheard of and amused King Charles who referred to it as a "lively experiment" in the royal charter he granted the colony of Rhode Island in 1663.
It wasn't long before religious groups began settling in. Although no longer in use, the first permanent Quaker settlement, the Great Friends Meeting House, was built in 1699. The Society of Friends believed in a "plain style" of living. This was reflected in the way they dressed, the way they spoke, the homes where they lived, and the meeting houses in which they worshiped. Although no longer in use, tours of the building are offered by The Newport Historical Society.
The Touro Synagogue, the oldest synagogue building in North America, still holds services in the Orthodox Sephardic tradition of its founders. A testament to the importance of tradition since most of the congregation is neither Orthodox nor Sephardic. The tours of the synagogue offer a fascinating glimpse into the importance of religious freedom in the early days of this country. The building itself was designed by Peter Harrison, often considered America's first architect. You can also see the letter written to the congregation in 1790 by George Washington declaring that the new nation would "give to bigotry no sanction, to persecution no assistance."
Then, there's Trinity Church at the corner of Spring and Church Streets. It was built in the mid-1720s by carpenter-master builder Richard Munday, and was considered to be a masterpiece of its time. A small colonial era burial ground is adjacent. Trinity church has been active as a place of worship since the 18th century.
Early settlers also revered education and learning, soon creating one of the first public libraries, and one of about a dozen that remain. Redwood Library and Athenaeum on Bellevue Avenue dates back to 1748, and started with the collection of Abraham Redwood. With its classic design by Peter Harrison and its collection of sculpture and paintings, it's clearly like no modern library. On your visit you can pick up a sheet describing the art works, as well as browse the library. But public then meant open to the public, rather than free of charge. The people of Newport, then and now, support the Library financially with yearly dues of $100 for a household. Open seven days a week, most of the programs, exhibits, and events are open to the public. There's also a lovely garden with Abraham Redwood's summer house, dating back to 1766.
The Library's special collections include the original books purchased in England in 1749 in its own special room, but just walking through the rooms of this truly historic building is to walk back into history.
Militia
Of course the fledgling colony needed a militia. The Artillery Company of Newport was chartered in 1741 by King George II. Although its duties today are more ceremonial -- providing cannon salutes, color guards, and honor guards for official state and local ceremonies - the Artillery Company has served with distinction in the French Indian Wars, the War of the Revolution, at the Battle of Lake Erie in the War of 1812, at the First Battle of Bull Run during the Civil War, and the Spanish-American War.
The Artillery Company operates a military museum with a collection of military uniforms and memorabilia, including uniforms worn by famous generals, four bronze cannon cast by Paul Revere in 1798 for the State of Rhode Island, three Civil War artillery pieces, a letter written to the men of the Artillery Company in 1794 by George Washington, and other pieces of military-related objects significance to the Artillery Company accrued during its more than 260 years of continuous service to the State of Rhode Island.
Tavern
Billed as one of America's oldest taverns, the White Horse Tavern was originally constructed in 1673 as a residence but became an official tavern in 1687. Although it was used for a time as a boarding house, in 1954 the Preservation Society restored the building and opened it as a restaurant. The White Horse Tavern is now privately owned. The style is pure 17th century with clapboard walls, gambrel roof, and plain doors bordering the sidewalk. Inside, there are giant fireplaces, huge beams, and tiny stairways.
Housing
There are, of course, several houses that have been restored to reflect the daily lives of Newport colonial inhabitants. The Wanton-Lyman-Hazard House, built for Stephen Mumford in the 1670s, is the oldest restored house in Newport. Projects to restore the grounds and gardens as well as archaeological excavation are underway. For example, paint analysis was conducted on the interior and exterior of the house, and the findings were used to reinterpret the house's paint scheme. Tours are offered through Newport Historical Society.
Day Two: The Lives They Led
Cliffside Mansions
During the industrial boom times of the late 1800s, and before income taxes took their bite, the wealthy families of the east coast summered in Newport, and made Bellevue Avenue one of the richest streets in the United States. Sitting high above the water they built one mega-mansion after the other, each more gilt and gorgeous than the next, in a profusion of different architectural styles from Gothic to Italian palaces. Vanderbilt's The Breakers and Marble House, and Rosecliff built for a Nevada silver heiress. The Victorian villa commissioned by China trade merchant William Wetmore, and Chateau-sur-Mer, the first of Newport's palatial summer mansions, where the Gilded Age began.
The best way to see these fanciful confections is with a tour from the Newport Preservation Society. For something special, take the Behind-the-Scenes Tour at The Elms. This is Upstairs-Downstairs, from the kitchens and coal cellar, to the tiny staff quarters, learn about life behind the scenes, the social scene.
After the tour of the houses, stroll along their backyards on the lovely Cliff Walk. It runs 3.5 miles along the ocean. Mansions on one side, water on the other.
Yachting
The International Yacht Restoration School is devoted to the preservation of maritime skills and historic watercraft. Visitors can watch students work in the shop, see gallery exhibits and view classic yachts afloat and ashore. You can also learn about the 1885 schooner yacht Coronet, the school's flagship and America's most historic yacht, which is being restored to sail again as a floating museum.
International Tennis Hall of Fame
Think you've seen tennis courts? Step back in time with this National Historic Landmark Victorian shingle-style built in 1880, designed by Stanford White. Walk through the tunnel and step into another world starting with the grass-carpet tennis court. The buildings surrounding Tennis Hall of Fame include a museum with interactive exhibits, videos and memorabilia. Want to play tennis in this historical setting? You can. Grass courts are available during the summer. The International Tennis Hall of Fame also host professional tennis matches.
Day Three: Wineries
If you're looking for a day trip try the Newport wine trail trio. Newport Vineyards tasting room and mini tour actually take place in a small shopping center. The Greenvale Vineyards are a bit further down the road, but this part vineyard, part farm, is actually on the National Register of Historic Places. It's a lovely setting with delicious wine. The Sakonnet Vineyards and Winery is even further, but offers lovely grounds and a film and tour, as well as tastings. The wines cultivated in the Newport area include all the old favorites - Chardonnay, Cabernet, but there's also grape called the Vidal, a French American hybrid that makes a lovely fruity wine.
For evenings entertainment, there are restaurants, shops, clubs a plenty. But you can also take advantage of Newport's many varied Festivals. The folk and jazz festivals as well as the Newport Music Festival are legendary. The film festival also comes to town. There are also special events and evenings in the mansions of Newport.
Lodging
Newport has accommodations for all tastes. The Hotel Viking is a beautifully restored well-located historic hotel in the heart of Newport. A member of the Historic Hotels of America, it offers all the amenities. The Hyatt Regency, just across a tiny bridge is also a good choice. The hotel also offers in- and out-door pools and tennis. Mini-van service into town is available. The Mill Street Inn is a National Historic Landmark, and well-located in the historic district. The Legendary Inns of Newport offer three different inns, each luxurious and historic.
Neala Schwartzberg is a freelance writer specializing in travel-related stories, and publisher of OffbeatTravel.